Gorillas, hardship and luxury in Rwanda
Africa is still the Dark Continent. It is replete with mysteries, wonders and misconceptions, among other treasures. Consider Rwanda, for example. This is a…
Silence in the reeds
I sit in a mokoro, or African dug-out canoe, my eyes only a metre above the waterline. My feet are stretched out before me,…
A bark at sunset
We were in the Okavango Delta, on the edge of an island of woodland overlooking an open floodplain, sipping cocktails and enjoying the changing…
Desert lioness (2018)
February 2018 The rich ochre and black ridges and the flat, stony plains of the Skeleton Coast appear to have no life at all,…
Bisate Lodge
Bisate Eco Lodge is tucked into the south-western slopes of a small extinct volcano offering stunning sunset views of two of the eight largest…
the Highlands
The Highlands is situated high on the slopes of Olmoti Volcano, and at 2,700m (8,850ft) is the highest camp in the Ngorongoro Highlands area. …
Mystery stripes
Ruyard Kipling wrote a wonderful book – Just So Stories explaining various mysteries including how the leopard got his spots, and how the rhino…
To the top of Africa
We reached a ledge where we could rest and have a picnic ¾s of the way up the formidable 3,000 ft high (over 1,000m)…
Giraffe – one species or more?
An essential requirement for a species is that they can reproduce and have fertile offspring. Clearly if they cannot do so, they become extinct….
A day and a night at Ngorongoro Crater
Ngorongoro Crater is a marvel of geology. It is a fully intact 280km2 unbroken caldera situated in the heart of the Great Rift Valley….
Africa’s most iconic mammal
Mention Africa and lions, cheetahs, gazelles, elephants, rhinoceroses and leopards come to mind, but none of these animals are uniquely African, as they are…
The struggle for wildlife in Mana Pools
One of my favourite national parks, Mana Pools in Zimbabwe, is very seasonal. It is an outstanding place to experience wildlife in the dry…