Tracking mountain gorillas
We have been hiking at a steady pace through montane forest for nearly an hour. Even with my jacket off it is cool at this altitude. Whenever we pause, the rasping calls of black-billed turacos echo from deep in the trees. I raise my binoculars and search for one of...
Gorillas and the Congo
Last December Dave led a safari to a new destination for us – Odzala-Kokoua National Park, situated in a remote corner of a country on the west side of Africa - the Republic of Congo (often abbreviated to ROC). There are two Congos. The ROC has a longstanding stable government,...
A childhood venture into the African bush
We turned off the narrow tarmac road onto a dusty track at a roadside village with scattered makeshift houses roofed in tin sheets or thatch. The landscape was stunningly picturesque and simultaneously harsh. Thick thorny commiphora bush dominated the vegetation interspersed with sporadic grassy open areas. Ring-necked doves cooed and...
Hiking in the Pyrenees
Last spring we stayed in the picturesque village of Alquézar, nestled below an Arab fortress perched dramatically on a limestone outcrop above the Vero gorge. The village guards the canyon´s mouth, a nesting haven for griffons and a pair of peregrine falcons. From this elevated vantage, the eye travels across...
Skeleton Coast lions 2024 update
In February 2018, I was on safari in Namibia's Skeleton Coast, a desert simultaneously so harsh and beautiful that it never ceases to impress me. The wildlife here roams vast distances in search of vegetation and water. Some species such as oryx (gemsbok) and springbok are so well adapted that...
The Family Tent
When I heard a strange sound while lying in bed at night it was comforting knowing that our kids were literally next door, and if I wanted to check on them I would not need to leave my tent. A family tent on safari is an innovative accommodation option featuring...
Usangu Plains
Ruaha National Park is Tanzania's second largest and is undoubtedly one of my favourite parks. It covers an area of 20,226 km2 (7,809 sq mi), which is larger than Denali National Park and is more than twice the size of Yellowstone. Years ago we would seasonally set up a...
Exploration of Ugalla River
Gillian and I met Dave at Arusha Airport in Tanzania. Local outfitter Nomad Tanzania had invited us on a recce (a reconnaissance trip to have a look at somewhere new or that has changed) to see their new Expeditionary Walking Camp. This was currently in Ugalla River National Park. This...
On foot in Mana Pools
It was August 2021. I made the most of a rare break due to the pandemic and travelled to Zimbabwe with my family. A highlight was our stay by the banks of the Zambezi River in the far north-east with Carl Nicholson, a keen younger professional safari guide. In 2019...
The mokoro ride
There were no thundering hooves of fleeing buffalo or barking of zebra this afternoon. Even the coos of the turtle and wood doves were subdued owing to the heat. We gently slid into the mokoro. Kenneth leaned on his long pole, skillfully balancing in the prow, and we silently glided...
A long, long time ago
As I stand on the western slopes of Ngorongoro Crater looking out over the vast Serengeti Plain, heads of giraffes appear and disappear between the tops of the acacias. There are times, often in January or February, when I also see long lines of migratory herds of wildebeest and zebra....
On safari in the Coronavirus era
Updated on 12 April, 2021 The Serengeti Plains and Ngorongoro Crater, normally almost overrun with visitors at this time of year, are now quiet. Few people are considering traveling abroad. Many parts of Europe and North America are sadly enduring another wave of the corona-virus epidemic. Most people will not...
